The famous Oyster Bar restaurant at Cafe Royal
well known for how they’ve been prepared,’ he says. Leith’s rejuvenated waterfront boasts some of Edinburgh’s best eating, and this is as good as it gets. Wishart has worked with the Roux brothers and Marco Pierre White, and his intimate restaurant marries local seasonal ingredients with contemporary French cuisine. His wife is French, and the French-and-Scots dialects of her front-of-house staff echo the oblique accents of his food.
It’s quite classical,’
he says, ‘but I also use my own finishing touches.’ His delicate dishes are subtle yet arresting. The understated decor and informative, friendly service allow you to sit back and relish them.
Dinner about £100 for two without wine
? Oloroso, 33 Castle Street (0131 226 7614). You’d never guess there was a first-class restaurant above this anonymous office block, but the lift opens onto a plate-glass penthouse looking out across the Forth,