I wouldn’t recommend staying in downtown Naples, you’ll have a much more relaxing experience going a bit farther south toward the Amalfi coast. In high season you’ll need to book well ahead for hotels, and prices, in general, aren’t cheap. One reasonable option, and a nice place for a family in Amalfi, is the Sharon House (Via dei Curiali 4, tel. 089/873-576, www.amalfisharonhouse.it, ‚120 d). No sweeping sea views here in the middle of town, but clean, vibrantly decorated rooms that make for a great base for exploring. For roughly the same price, a little more romantic option is the Villa Lara (Via delle Cartiere 1, tel. 089/873-6358, www.vilalara.it, ‚90 195) which is a solid walk uphill. From the reception, you take an elevator carved into the rock up to the sweeping views from the terrace, and bright, colorful rooms. FOOD It’s hard to go wrong in Amalfi, if you’re after fresh seafood and great pizza, virtually everyone has it, but one of my favorites is Taverna di Masaniello (Vicolo Masaniello 14, no phone, noon 3 P.M. and 7 10 P.M. Tues. Sun., ‚5 12). Have the catch of the day, followed by one of the freshest caprese salads you will ever taste, or just settle on a pizza (‚5), better than any you will taste in North America.