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GETTING THERE Olympic Airways (0870 606 0460; www.olympic-airways.com) flies from Heathrow to Rhodes via Athens from £278 return in August, British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Athens from £156 return. EasyJet (0870 600 0000; www. easyjet.com) flies from

Luton to Athens from £144 return. Aegean Airlines (00 30 210 998 8300; www.aegeanair. com) flies on to Rhodes from Athens from 170 return in August. Overnight ferries to Rhodes (average journey time 15 hours; fares from about 60 return) leave from the Athenian port of Piraeus. Operators include DANE Sea Lines (00 30 22410 43150) and GA Ferries (00 30 210 451 1720).

The rim of a long, green gash of a valley stretching inland. A long-time resident, Greek satirical cartoonist Vangelis Pavlidis, told me that this part of the island was once famous for its hawks and falcons. The Maltese falcon of Dashiell Hammett’s novel and John Huston’s film, he maintains, should really have been Rhodian.

Cleobolus, the tyrant of Lindos, coined the maxim Moderation in all things’. Moderation is not what most of today’s visitors to Rhodes are looking for. But serene equilibrium can still be found in the remote rural tavernas of Lachania or Vati, with the help of a moderate quantity of retsina and a moderate dash of ouzo. Or in the secret, golden alleyscapes of the Old Town, as the immoderate day is ending. O

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