Cent c², cent crap’. One hundred heads, one hundred opinions. Quell che fa ciap la cioca l’e smper l’»ltem bicr. The last glass is always the one that makes you drunk. Quii de Valtulina: scarpa grossa, crapa fina. People from Valtellina: big shoes, sharp minds. (That is, they may be peasants from the mountains, but they’re not dummies.) rooftops near Lake Como The best time to enjoy the lake is in the spring, before the crowds arrive. The shores explode in color, as wisteria covers the villas’ iron gates and petunias hang off Roman-era walls. (The inhabitants of Lake Como, or Lario, as the locals once called it, were Roman citizens starting in 59 B.C.) Early fall is also an excellent time to take on the hiking trails, before the cold November rain arrives. Several trails lead to mountain refuges that serve polenta and wine as a reward for the climb. Winters are deathly quiet. Rental prices in the off-season are a half or a third of what they are during June, July, and August.