21 Romilly Street, W1 020 7439 0450 www.lindsayhouse.co.uk Open lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner only Sat Irishman Richard Corrigan is a real chef’s chef – while many of his peers play the media game, he sticks resolutely to fashioning imaginative dishes in the kitchen. The results show just how good creative British/Irish cuisine can be in the right hands. The restaurant, set in a i74os Georgian townhouse, is as understated as the man himself. Ring the bell to be let in, and you’ll be shown to one of various small dining spaces. The gracious staff might be serving up globe artichoke, Cornish crab and parsley dressing, followed perhaps by saddle of rabbit, black pudding, polenta and confit garlic, and then glazed apple turnover with caramel and prunes to finish. If your wallet can bear the strain, consider the seven-course tasting menu in order to sample Corrigan’s finest creations.